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Text and photographs: Nilesh Korgaonkar

The giant nation suddenly swung open its big red doors.

And insatiable travellers, like me, were dizzy with delight on hearing the news of China’s open door policy. I have longed to journey to this once forbidden place. The excitement of getting more than a glimpse of the mystique behind the Bamboo Curtain was irresistible. The new mantra of the Chinese authorities – ‘Comrades, we must increase the production of tourists’ – was like music to my ears.

I learnt that, in 1981, the Chinese suddenly started issuing visas to solo travellers through a couple of their embassies overseas, but mainly through various agencies in Hong Kong. Just about anyone who wanted a visa could get one. But since there was no fanfare, news spread slowly by word of mouth. Within a couple of years, just about everyone who landed in Hong Kong was going to China.

Entering China

It was, without doubt, the most horrifying bus journey of my life. The non-stop journey across the bleak northern portion of the Tibetan plateau stretched for 48 hours. To add to my woes, I was ensconced amidst a platoon of chain-smoking Chinese soldiers. If, at any time in the future, I suffer from a secondary smoking related disease, I will know whom to blame.

But I didn't have much choice -- it was the cheapest way to get from Lhasa to northern China. The alternative: Taking the twice daily flight to Chengdu for a whopping US $ 210.

But there are other economical ways of arriving in China. I would recommend that, instead of entering and leaving China from Hong Kong, it is best to enter from Hong Kong and exit through the western borders or vice versa. That way, you end up saving the airfare one way.

One could enter through the Xinjiang province in northwest China from either Pakistan (the Karakoram highway, which is out-of-bounds for Indians) or from Kazhakastan and take the train route from Alma Ata to Urumqi. I would love to travel that route one day.

Of late, even Myanmar has offered transit facilities through its territory to Thailand from the Yunan province. Of course, the route you plan depends largely on how much of China you plan to see. For Indians, I would recommend the route in from Tibet -- even the bus trip, since it provides an opportunity see a bit of Nepal and Tibet before you venture into mainland China.

Essentials

Tourist bureau offices are few and far in between. Sign posts are in Mandarin. And unless you are fluent in Chinese, conveying your needs or getting information can be a very frustrating experience.

My instant solution was to arm myself with the Lonely Planet guide. It was my saviour. And I would sincerely advise anyone planning a trip to China to do the same. Please guard it, as you would your passport, tickets and other travel documents. Because, without it, you are dead. Once in China, you cannot find a replacement for it for love or money.

Planning

Where to go

Xinjiang, in the northwest, is predominantly Muslim. It bears a strong similarity to the other central Asian states. The ancient Silk Route used to pass through this province before continuing into the Gansu province and then onto Beijing. If you hold a non-Indian passport, you could try approaching this province from Pakistan via the Karakoram Highway and then make your way to Kashghar and then on to Urumqui. The railway line from the Kazhak capital Alma Ata crosses the border and continues to Urumqui, the provincial capital. There are some great desert itineraries that you could follow into the Tala Makan desert.

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