*Road:**: By road

Bombay-Goa route mapPanjim is 585 km from Bombay by road. The drive is a fairly pleasant one, with little traffic and quite attemptable even by visitors to India. It is possible to rent a car with/without a chauffeur from any office of Hertz, Budget and Wheels in Pune or Bombay or Goa. To hire a "self-drive" car, as it is termed, a valid international driving license is required. The highway, by Indian standards, is in good condition and meanders through picturesque Maharashtrian coastal lands and somnolent villages.

The view from Taj resort at Chiplun At the halfway mark and at around 300 km from Panjim is the small town of Chiplun. It's a good idea to use Chiplun as a night halt to avoid doing the run all in one day. A few kilometres before Chiplun, the Taj hotel group has its rather scenic riverside retreat called the Gateway Lodge, located on a bluff overlooking the flat-bedded, sluggish Vashishti river in the valley below. Its address Gateway Riverview Lodge, Dhamandivi, Khed taluka, Ratnagiri, 415707.

Double rooms run to Rs 2100 per night off season, one meal included. During tourist season, from December till the first week of January, and after March, the tariff is as high as Rs 2,700 per night, without taxes, but meals included. Advance booking is a must during school holiday periods (Christmas, summer and Diwali). The hotel authorities cite strange rules, from time to time, about adding an extra bed in a double room and it is best to enquire in advance about this. The food available in the hotel restaurant is tasty and the rooms are comfortable. Bookings can made by calling the Bombay reservation office at 022-2023355 or in Chiplun call 02356-72233 or 02355-52853. Or in Chiplun fax 02356-72059.

Hotel WakratundA cheaper alternative to the Gateway Lodge are two hotels located in the industrial town of Lote Parshuram, about 15 kilometres before Chiplun (north of). The rather extraordinary looking Hotel Wakratund, opposite Lote PO, tel # 02356-72017, 72113, 72114 is extremely reasonable. The hotel gardens are dotted with giant, house-sized mythological characters and it has a rather weird facade. See the picture above.

Room availability is not a problem here; the hotel is mammoth size. The tariff for a triple room is Rs 550 per night. The rooms are passable enough for a pit stop and it is possible to drive across to the Taj's Gateway Lodge restaurant for a meal.

However for a little more comfort try the nearby Hotel Pagoda, which offers AC double rooms for Rs 600 per night. Here the rooms are very clean and attractive and the hotel even has an attached swimming pool. It is advisable to make room bookings in advance here too because travellers have reported that the management attempts to foist AC rooms on guests even when non-AC rooms are available.

For more details about driving down to Goa check out Rediff On The NeT's travel feature, The Long and Winding Road.

There are many bus services that connect Bombay with Goa. However travelling to Goa by bus is hardly an alternative as the journey is most uncomfortable. The ride takes 15 hours or much more and the drive is so bumpy that the buses seem to lack shock absorbers. The buses make highway stops at places that lack adequate rest room facilities. Further, loud Hindi video movies are usually shown on these buses, late into the night. But this is by far the most economical way to reach Goa.

Tickets are as cheap as Rs 150. Various types of coaches are available. Seats in luxury coaches, go for Rs 350 or more. The Limouzine buses that depart from Borivali are rather comfortable. Some of the lines have recently introduced sleeper buses that are apparently very popular, where like a train, the bus is sectioned out into sleepers instead of seats.

The Goa buses usually depart late in the afternoon daily from the Metro bus stand, bordering the Azad Maidan. Tickets are available at booths just across the Azad Maidan, opposite St Xavier's College. It is advisable to book a few days in advance and confirm seats, exact point of departure, as well as the bus license plate number.

It is possible to go by an MTDC buses or by private buses to Goa from Pune as well. The MTDC tourist centre, Central Building, Sassoon Hospital Road, tel # 668867, will provide the exact details. Tickets on private buses can be booked through a travel agent.

*Plane:**: By plane

A 55-minute flight from Bombay's Santa Cruz airport to Goa's Dabolim, which is near the port town of Vasco-da-Gama and 32 km from Panjim. All the major airlines -- Indian Airlines, Jet Airways, NEPC, Sahara -- service this sector. Schedules however change frequently and during the tourist season, especially at peak times, it is extremely difficult to get seats. Booking in advance is highly recommended. Most also have interline agreements with major international air carriers so sector booking can be done from Europe and North America. Goa is also connected by air to New Delhi, Bangalore and Madras, Cochin, Trivandrum and Pune. For exact schedule details check out Rediff Travel's Airlines section.

Many charter flights arrive in Dabolim airport from Britain and Germany. Check with Lufthansa's allied airline, Condor or better still the tour operators listed below.

*Sea:**: By sea

Panjim is a seven-hour catamaran ride from Bombay's Ferry Wharf near Mazagon Dock. The catamaran docks at the Panjim jetty, located right in town. The service is run by Frank Shipping Ltd and it is a night run to Panjim from Bombay, although now one can do a day trip too. From Panjim the catamarans leave for Bombay in the morning to arrive late evening. At the moment the service is suspended for monsoon and is expected to resume in early October.

The line now offers in-house entertainment -- like live band performances, movies. Schedules change often so confirming the timings early is recommended. For reservations contact Frank Shipping Ltd office located at Ferry Wharf, Mazgaon, tel # 022-3731855, 3738788 in Bombay or in Goa at the Fishery Jetty, near the Panaji post office, tel # 0832-228712, 228713, 228711.

A few cruise lines -- P&O and Royal Caribbean -- touch Goa on their South Asia tours but just for a day or overnight.

*Rail:**: By rail

Konkan Railways now runs all the way from Bombay to Mangalore.

The last tunnel, near Pernem is complete. Work on this last and very difficult stretch of 600 km has been on since 1992 and had held up the completion of the line which was finally innaugurated on January 26.

Several trains now connect Bombay, Agra, Kerala and New Delhi with Goa