Located on the fingertip of Bombay's peninsula, this area is the starting point for any tourist activity. Colaba is a spicy mixture, very much like India's most famous export -- curry powder. Sleaze jostles for space with middle class India. Drugs and prostitutes are as much part of Colaba life as are high masses and temple bells.
Each street corner is unpredictable. It may be occupied by a sweet old man selling six items displayed on a handkerchief spread on the sidewalk or by a tout who will hiss out from a shaded doorway, "Drugs"! Like a tourist district in any city in the world it buzzes with touristy activities like souvenir hawking and money changing and there are plenty of bargains to be had. At the same time as you glance at the crumbling buildings around it is very difficult to forget Colaba's role in British India.
Tourist spot number one on any list for a Bombay city tour is
naturally the Gateway of India. In this list of Bombay
bests it is merely a starting point for a hectic swirl through
Colaba. The last outpost of the Raj, so to speak, the Gateway,
though built as late as 1924 by George Wittett was modelled after
samples of yesteryear architecture and is in some ways Bombay's
most authentic fake.
Built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, ironically, it was designed to be a future disembarkation for Britishers arriving on P&O liners. A quarter of a century later it was the doorway through which the last detachment of the British army disappeared back across the seven seas.
It faces the magnificent Taj Mahal Hotel, about which there
are numerous tales and tall tales. Built by industrialist J N
Tata the story goes that on being denied admittance at the pucca
sahibs' hotel Watson's, Tata vowed to build a hotel for the
brown-skinned. Watson's no longer exists and the Taj is one of
the world's most famous hotels. The other tale, said to be apocryphal,
was that by mistake the Taj was built back to front when the architect
was away on holiday. On his return when he learnt of the error,
the gent committed suicide. The promenade that runs from the Taj
southwards is lined by some magnificent turn of the century mansions.
The seaface is an area of much activity. Travel southwards from
the Gateway and you will end up back on the Causeway. On the other
side of the Causeway is the quiet shady Cusrow Baug a Parsi
enclave.
The Causeway is almost a linear bazaar of sorts. But one can dip in leftwards into the real Colaba Bazar and in case you don't have time to see any of the city's real bazaars this is fairly representative.
*Sassoon:**:
Meander further down the Causeway towards Bombay's tip and your
nose will guide you to Sassoon Dock, a dock where much
of Bombay's seafood catch is unloaded. If you can stand the stench
of Sassoon Dock, stroll in through the tall baroque gate. This
fish market provides one with a glimpse of Bombay's original inhabitants,
the Kolis who fish for a living.
Koli fisherfolk attired in true local garb - women very colourfully
clad in dhoti-style saris and adorned with jewellery and flowers
- squat over pyramids of silver fish. Fishing boats bob at the
water's edge and the quayside bustles with seafood being unloaded
on to on hand carts. Walk further south and you will reach
Afghan Church.
*Afghan:**:
A lovely church as churches go. It could be easily mistaken for
a church in Blighty. Peep inside to read the memorial plaques.
And if you are ever in the area on a Sunday when the bell ringer
is practising, it is enchanting to stand some distance away and
hear the church bells pealing Ode to Joy.
A stone's throw away is the old Colaba lighthouse. A brisk walk east and then north again in the direction of the Gateway will bring one out to Cuffe Parade, once a fancy promenade by the sea. The elegant mansions that once looked out to sea, now look out to another Bombay shanty town and an array of intimidating skyscrapers.
*Fort:**:
In the heart of the original Fort area of Bombay is the Flora Fountain. Radiating from the whitewashed fountain are several avenues of impressive historic buildings. Do check out their tale and take a Fort walk. *Gymkhana:**:
Once a month at least, the Gymkhana's floorboards vibrate to the older members performing the fox trot. The gentleman's siesta room still admits only gentlemen and the easy chairs are often full of club regulars sleeping off a heavy prawn curry lunch.
Off-limits to anyone wandering in, temporary membership is available for a month at Rs 11,000 (Rs 5,000 to be returned at the month-end). However, a club member must sponsor you for the membership. An easier option is to ask your local host to take you there for a visit (hopefully, he is a member or knows a member).
*Crawford:**:
In the lanes radiating from Crawford Market can be found wares of every imaginable type. Directly opposite the market's main entrance are the lanes of Lohar Chawl, one of which houses the Mangaldas Market, a large cloth bazaar. Stuffy inside, it is a place to see what India does best. Bales and bales of cloth of every imaginable colour and texture on sale at throwaway prices.
Beyond Lohar Chawl towards a mosque begins Zaveri Bazar, Bombay's famed jewellery market. The staff at the gem stores are friendly even if you have no intention of buying an ounce of gold. The towering Mumbadevi temple, certainly worth a look, is close by.
*Chor:**:
The vendors at Mutton Street peddle trillions of antiques. New-to-old conversions are increasingly common, but you may unexpectedly find an objet d'art retrieved from some Goan home or Parsi mansion.
*Bhuleshwar:**:
From religious idols and garlands to cloth by the bale to steel utensils, everything is on sale in Bhuleshwar. Squeeze your way down Phool Gali (Flower Lane) and have a look at exotic floral garlands being woven together. At Diwali time Bhuleshwar bursts at its seams with sellers and shoppers alike. During December and January, the Indian wedding season, this tiny lane is busy turning out awesome decorations for wedding halls. Visit the Panjrapole Ghosala nearby - it is a retirement home for old cows!
*Jain:**:
This rather interesting temple is located a stone's throw away from the Governor's residence on Walkeshwar. This temple is the most important place of worship for Jains in Bombay; so much so that real estate in this neighbour hood has gone up tenfold, as wealthy Jains, some from Antwerp, prefer to buy property in Bombay as close to this address as possible.
A half hour spent in this temple can give one insight into the every day life of the Jain community, one of India's most prosperous groups and also followers of one of the most gentle faiths in the world. The lavish sculpture in the idol rooms and on the doors and ceilings of the ground floor and first floor of the temple is impressive. Don't miss the view of Bombay's Marine Drive from the back verandah on the second floor.
Noon is a good time to visit this temple -- the morning aartis are just drawing to a close. Next door is the living quarters for Jain 'nuns' and monks. Have a peep in at the attached kitchen where sumptuous and fragrant Jain meals are being prepared. By the way the attached shop sells some great Jain-style Gujarati snacks
*Church:**:
Another relic of the Raj, this tiny church is perched on the highest
point of Bombay. The plaques on the wall are testimony to the
who's who of the Raj who once worshipped here.
A short walk away from the church is a spot where one can have a panoramic view of the city below. The lights of Marine Drive lend meaning to the sobriquet Queen's Necklace.
Across the road is the Parsi Tower of Silence. Parsis, the planet's first environmentalists, consign their dead to dry wells where vultures dispose of the remains. Entry is forbidden to non-Parsis, but the inquisitive have been known to take a ride to the top of the nearest skyscraper to have a peep.
Reverse your steps, walk past the gates of the crowded Hanging Garden and take an elephant ride (on a Sunday afternoon) past Malabar Hill's fabulous mansions and Parsi bungalows, some still in mint condition. Alternately, take a taxi from the church to the Altamount and Carmichael Roads for a look at the bungalows there.
*Banganga:**:
Tucked away in a corner of Walkeshwar, this square cement reservoir
is easy to miss. Stumble through the byzantine lanes and you come
across an artificial lake bordered by a pretty temple. Another
tranquil spot in the middle of Bombay's teeming millions, legend
has it that the temple came up at the spot where the Hindu god
Ram's arrow apparently once fell.
Every February, a festival of Indian music and dance on the shores of this lake makes for a romantic evening
*Haji:**:
Pop across the underground subway to the Heera Panna shopping centre where the latest electronic gismos from Tokyo are on sale. Check out the food stores where jumbo packets of After Eight chocolates and Head and Shoulders shampoo are on sale at a price equivalent to a minor prince's salary.
*Babulnath:**:
One has to climb some hundred steps to reach the shrine. The priests
can be touchy about foreigners, so it is important to dress decently.
At the bottom of the temple are a row of shop selling puja paraphernalia -- flowers, sweets, coconuts etc. Take some time out to see sweets being made nearby. On the first landing, about fifty steps up, before you actually reach the temple, is apparently the living quarters of some of the temple sadhus and the jumble of beds, cats and idols makes for a one in a million snapshot. The temple is decorated on the outside by gaudy statues of peacocks, lions and other such animals. The strange decorative style of the temple and its complex is the real draw of Babulnath.
This temple comes into its own in late February, on Mahashivratri the festival that honours Shiva the Hindu god.
*Syn**:
Bombay once had a noticeable, if not subtantial, Jewish population. They were influential members of the city's business community. Today their population has dwindled considerably. But their synagogues, clubs and cemeteries remain. Do check out Rediff Travel's slide show on Bombay's synagogues
*Mahalaxmi:**:
A fine place to be when the racing season is on every winter. If you can wangle your way into the members' enclosures at the Turf Club, enjoy the coconut macaroons and tea. Elegantly clad bearers roam the race stands and life has a slow charm within the club. Derby Day is when Bombay's elite make their fashion statements.
*Matunga:**:
If you are not going to Madras this trip and still want to see a bit of South India visit Matunga. You can see a typical Tamil skyscraper temple, a little flower market and stores selling Tamil wares from Kancheevaram silk saris to special food condiments for South Indian cooking. There are even Tamil restaurants where you can have a traditional vegetarian meal on a banana leaf.
Do check out Rediff Travel's photo feature, "Oh, this is just like home!"
*Mary:**:
Mount Mary to all of Bombay, this shrine graces a leafy hilltop,
alongside huge mansions and hip apartment blocks. Its grand spires add a special dimension to Bandra's skyline The altar and interior of the church are rather ornate and rich.
*Film:**:
*Museums:**:
Take a few minutes to gaze at this magnificent building which
was built by George Wittet of Gateway of India fame. The museum, with its beautifully laid out gardens is one of the prettiest buildings in Bombay. You need
a full day to take in the museum's extensive collection of ancient
Indian treasures, medieval painting and sculpture. Look out for
material from the Indus Valley and the awesome Mughal miniatures.
Kala Ghoda, next door to the P of W museum - If you are in Bombay
for a long haul or a frequent visitor you may want to visit the
Jehangir -- arguably, the country's leading art gallery; it is
fully booked till 2000 -- for a glimpse of Indian art. The five
exhibition halls showcase work produced by some of India's leading
painters. You can also pick a print or two very cheaply at the
J's modest store. And don't forget to have a cool kala khatta
at the Samovar, the still-very-trendy cafe patronised by the city's
cognoscenti.
Dr Ambedkar Marg, Byculla - A monument to the development of Bombay
from a small fort at the tail of seven islands to the huge city
it is today. The cornerstone of this museum, housed in an elegant
Victorian-Gothic building, was laid in the 1870s. Architectural
models, art objects, old musical instruments, engravings and survey maps are on show inside.
Noteworthy is the large stone elephant kept in solitary isolation in a back garden. The elephant was adopted by the museum, for lack of a better word, for 'safekeeping'' from the landing stage next to the cave temple at Elephanta. This elephant was the reason why the Portuguese called the island Elephanta.
Next door is the Victoria Gardens, Bombay's 'zoo' and botanical garden. The gardens are pleasant and have some rare plants on display. But the few, smelly cages of animals are an apology for a zoo. The garden of retired statues of British statesmen, monarchs and leaders, located in a garden adjacent to the museum, is worth a visit, after you take permission from the curator. Do check out Rediff Travel's feature, Graveyard of Statues. *End:**:
