Amid the rhythmic chug of the train, a chorus of voices rises, each bearing its tale of hope and despair.
Even as the Brahmaputra Mail gently rumbles into Kamakhya Junction, perched on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra, the sun plays a whimsical game of peekaboo amid the swirling clouds above Guwahati.
The station, recently thrust into the limelight, finds itself among the chosen few, selected by the rail ministry alongside 1,274 others for a grand makeover under the Amrit Bharat Station Scheme.
Adorning its walls are vibrant splashes of traditional artwork, yet the platform benches sit shrouded in dust, with litter strewn carelessly along the edges.
Within the confines of the train, a microcosm of the nation unfolds. From the opulent to the destitute, all find their place aboard the Mail, embarking on a journey spanning over 2,000 kilometres from Kamakhya in Assam to Old Delhi.
Amid the rhythmic chug of the train, a chorus of voices rises, each bearing its tale of hope and despair.
Some sing praises of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, while others lament the dearth of employment opportunities and what they perceive as Modi's failure to address them.
Over the years, the Mail's punctuality has seen a marked improvement, much to the relief of weary passengers.
Local vendors eagerly await the station's facelift, hopeful that it will usher in a new era of prosperity.
Among the throng of travellers is Utsav Das (name changed), a police officer bound for election duty.
His uniform, with a nameplate taped up in places, bears witness to the rigours of his profession.
"I've been on duty many a time, but this journey feels somewhat lighter. Though we still endure double shifts, the political fervour on the ground seems subdued,: he remarks.
The aftermath of the anti-Citizenship (Amendment) Act-National Register of Citizens protests casts a long shadow over the recent Assam assembly elections.
Das notes an exodus of Congress leaders to the Bharatiya Janata Party, a shift that has weakened the former.
Assam Chief Minister Himanta Biswa Sarma hints at further defections to the BJP after the election.
Travelling in third-class AC, Das' fellow passengers resonate with Sarma's assertive leadership style.
They nod in agreement with his vigorous rhetoric, even by the BJP's standards, expressing discontent with the Centre's stance on CAA.
"Trinamool Congress is bound to suffer a major setback in its vote share. People are tired of Mamata Banerjee's Muslim appeasement," says Pritam Das, echoing sentiments prevalent in North Bengal.
His wife Deepa interjects, "Indian Muslims are a fine community, but the issue lies with Rohingyas and Bangladeshis with khurafat (mischief) in their minds. Modi has managed to keep them in check, for which we re grateful."
As the journey progresses, Bongaigaon station offers a brief respite, where Railway Protection Force officers, station vendors, and railway staff engage in a spirited game of carrom.
It's a rare break in a hectic daily struggle; with fewer coaches and the festival rush, managing the surging crowds is a challenge.
Among them is Vipin Mahato (name changed), the bedroll and linen attendant, whose allegiance lies with the train he calls home.
Raised in Malda, he now spends his days aboard the Mail, separated from his family due to fear of wage losses.
Railway jobs grow scarcer by the year, laments Vipin, highlighting the poor pay, lack of job security, and inadequate health coverage endured by contract workers like himself.
Further along the journey, within the general coaches, hawkers navigate the aisles, offering snacks and beverages to travellers.
Despite economic hardships, a silent camaraderie prevails, as they recognise the shared struggle for survival.
Passengers voice concerns over job scarcity, inflation, and perceived governmental favouritism towards the affluent.
Another passenger, a garment maker in his 60s, who runs a small unit in Darjeeling and is travelling to Delhi to visit his son, says small manufacturing units like his were struggling under the burden of increasing taxes and lack of government support.
"But it's OK. I'll vote for the development of the nation, which the prime minister has done," he says.
Asked why, he cites infrastructure growth and faster regional connectivity to the North East as the government's biggest achievements.
Rajesh Yadav, a 26 year old pursuing a postgraduate teaching degree from Allahabad University, highlights the prolonged vacancies in government sectors.
Shifting uncomfortably in his seat, a tiny patch of bench, Rajkumar, a 27-year-old lawyer, questions the prevailing discontent among passengers and the government's response, citing the shrinking space within general coaches and the complexities surrounding electoral bonds.
Amid the diverse array of voices, Shehzad, an electronics worker from Guwahati, expresses disillusionment with the government's response to the pandemic, foreseeing a potential backlash against the BJP.
Bikram Adhikari, a teenager from Asansol, dreams of a better future, aspiring to join the RPF to support his family back home.
Despite the challenges, hope permeates the air as the Mail chugs closer to its destination, embodying the aspirations and struggles of its passengers.
Feature Presentation: Aslam Hunani/Rediff.com
