Hitesh Harisinghani/Rediff.com invites you to have a peek at Bombay's oldest bakeries, that give off a tantalising fragrance of coal, yeast, baking paav, long before you reach them, summoning you closer hypnotically. Their history beckons too, as you imagine the eventful, rich eras of Bombay's past they have witnessed.
Like most old-time city bakeries, Ahura is Irani-run. Located bang opposite Andheri railway station, the unpretentious bakery, was established in 1962. Serving cakes, paav and varieties of puffs and farchas (breadcrumb-fried chicken), it has a legion of devoted customers.
The darling of Hill Road, A-1 Stores and Bakery in Bandra is another Irani gem that serves delectable puffs, rolls, cakes and breads. The wafting khushboo of baking will guide you here -- no need for GPS, your nose is good enough.
Another legendary Bandra joint is Catholic-run J Hearsch & Co, which is over 100 years old and has only takeaway. It is located inside a bungalow compound behind Holy Family Hospital in Bandra. Faithfuls wait patiently outside this cute, quaint little bungalow, waiting to take away a parcel of goodness.
American Express Bakery group of bakeries was began by the Carvalho family in 1908. The Colaba branch closed down during the war, but the Santa Cruz, Byculla and Bandra branches thrive baking up recipes handed down through the family. Famous for their tarts, breads, chocolate balls, patties.
Opposite Grant Road station, historic Merwan's, established in 1914 is probably older than the station. Serving pocket-friendly but delicious breads, mawa cakes, pudding etc, it allows dine-in but is self-service. Owned by the Nasrabadi family, they migrated to Bombay from Nazarabad in Iran.
Its chimney is a landmark on Dr Annie Besant Road but its perfectly-baked kadak or brun paav is what brings people to its doors for the last eight decades. Run by the Dashtis, it also serves delicious cream rolls, khari biscuits, croissants, sponge cakes and apparently counts Anil Ambani and Asha Bhosle as patrons.
At Marine Lines, the atmospheric bakery, was established in 1904 by the Shokriye clan, who came to Mumbai from Yazd in Iran. History floats in the air around here. Their buttery Shrewsbury biscuits have given them fame. Popular with office-goers, who stop in to have chai and bun maska. My personal fave there is Keema Paav
Owned by Irani folks, the Zends, in Fort, near St Thomas Cathedral it is almost seven decades old. Back in day, you could sit and enjoy a leisurely bun maska chai there, but now they only have takeaway. Their paav, be it kadak or the soft variety, is one of Mumbai's most famous.