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When I Took A Boat Holiday

By RONJITA KULKARNI
July 11, 2024 12:39 IST
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If you want food for your soul, narrowboating is definitely recommended, says Ronjita Kulkarni.

IMAGE: The Marina Bay in Whixall where narrowboats are docked. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The best way to really enjoy the English countryside is to go narrowboating.

Narrowboats are long, slim boats, designed like a home, sailing on a narrow canal. And since this is the UK, you have to sail it yourself :)

Don't let this put off first-timer sailors. It's not difficult, as the boats are not fast; it's as fast as your normal walking speed. Also, an expert will give you a thorough lesson and details about the boat before you set off. The boats, which run on diesel, are steered from the outside, on the deck, outside, using a rod at the back of the vessel.

 

IMAGE: The English countryside. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

We enjoyed our narrowboat experience across five days, four nights, when we sailed on the Llangollen Canal, from the quaint port of Whixall, Shropshire in England, to a village called Trevor in Wales. It's a distance of about 22 miles.

 

IMAGE: Each bedroom has a double bed, with drawers under it. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

IMAGE: What a view to wake up to! Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

Since we were a party of seven, we hired a very long narrowboat, with four bedrooms, which also came with a kitchen, a sitting area and two washrooms.

IMAGE: The Llangollen Canal was completed in 1835 and was originally used for trade purposes. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The views are indescribable.

Once you set sail, you will not see a single vehicle alongside the canal. You are literally living in nature.

Oh, but you may get duck traffic in the canals, so do look out for their flocks!

 

WATCH: Sailing the canal. Video: Ronjita Kulkarni

 

IMAGE: Approaching a set of canal locks. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

One of the specialties of narrowboating is the canal locks.

Since the water levels are different as you go along the canal, they are separated by locks, which you have to manually unlock and then lock again.

There were two locks on our route.

WATCH: You can see the different levels of water in this video, and how the canal locks work. Video: Ronjita Kulkarni

 

IMAGE: Top Tip: If you go narrowboating and pass another narrow boat, be sure to say hello to them! People are quite friendly on these canals and *always* greet you.
We saw a witch boat too, full of skulls! Quite a few folks live on their boats and you can identify those boats by their rooftop gardens. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

By day, you can sail as much or as little as you want.

Night-time sailing is not allowed, and one has to moor the boat along the banks by 8 pm.

 

IMAGE: A night in Wales. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The night experience is something else.

The above picture is where we spent our second night. There was lush greenery and absolutely no other human in sight.

Just you and nature.

IMAGE: Sundown. Photograph: Susmita Bhattacharya.

That doesn't make it dangerous though.

We even went for evening strolls along the banks, encountering no animals either.

In peak summer, daylight extends right up to 10 pm, so it never feels daunting. Even after that, the moon lights up the night, so you don't notice the absence of streetlights.

IMAGE: The town of Ellesmere. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

If you fall short of wine -- or even food (maybe not always in that order!) -- you can always moor along the busy town shops.

We found a Tesco outlet in Ellesmere, and got our supplies from there.

Water is available at regular stops along the canal for drinking and washing purposes.

There are refuelling pumps that are easy to access.

IMAGE: It's not extraordinary to see a 16th century inn in the UK, welcoming guests in even today, just like this one. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

There are diners and pubs along the canal, if you're feeling too lazy to cook on the boat.

 

IMAGE: The majestic Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Photograph: Susmita Bhattacharya.

The best part about Trevor -- and the reason why it attracts tourists from all over the world -- is that it has the longest aqueduct in Great Britain and is the highest canal aqueduct in the world.

Named the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, it stands tall at 126 feet and 12 feet in width.

As you sail through this narrow waterway, you will not forget the breathtaking view on either side.

You can even step out of the boat and walk along the footpath to view this aqueduct.

 

WATCH: The view from the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.  Video: Ronjita Kulkarni

 

IMAGE: The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct crosses over the River Dee. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct was built way back in 1795, and the construction took 10 years. The cost was 47,000 pounds at the time.

 

IMAGE: Before you approach the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, there's a smaller version of it, perhaps to give you a little sneak preview of what's to come. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The Trevor side of the aqueduct is quite busy, as tourists mill around to take in the view. Besides narrowboats and canoes, there are also day rides for tourists just for this view.

WATCH: Have you seen so much green? Video: Ronjita Kulkarni

 

 

Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

The village of Trevor, however, is very quiet.

 

IMAGE: A plateful of goodness. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

IMAGE: The Pontcysyllte Chapel Tearoom, like many other places in the UK, is dog-friendly, and has a jarfull of free treats for them! Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

An old church had been converted to create this restaurant, and the typical English breakfast here makes your belly very happy.

 

IMAGE: The canal also offers beautiful views to the handful of houses along the way. Photograph: Ronjita Kulkarni

If you want food for your soul, narrowboating is definitely recommended.

Quick Facts
* A four-night stay will set you back about 2,000 pounds.
* A minimum of two adults is mandatory to operate the boat.
* Dogs are allowed.

Handy Tip: Bring a torch, first-aid kit, bottled water, a hat, stout shoes or Wellingtons and wet-weather gear.

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RONJITA KULKARNI / Rediff.com