"Ah terrorism...you might die. Hope you are prepared."

...but I encounter graciousness and warmth amidst the Lankan strife

"Houston, we have a problem." Sitting in the theatre, eyes glued to the screen, popcorn bag gripped in alarm, as Tom Hanks in Apollo 13 realizes something is wrong with the space shuttle.

There will not be a landing on the moon, worse there may be no return home... and an anxious me sees chain links form in my mind's eye, connecting Hank's fear with my own, on my impending journey to Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Paranoia perhaps, but fear is never so real as when experienced first hand. Sri Lanka - land of strife, LTTE activists, terrorism... Once there, will I be able to return safely or worse, return at all...?

Prejudice and ignorance are a deadly combination. I suffer from both as any ill-informed, safety conscious traveller would, and rightly so. The prospect of a Colombo stopover (break-journey en route to Bombay from Male) seems immensely unappealing. Like the proverbial ostrich I would prefer to bury my head in sand, lest looking up should endanger my life.

But friends are not always indulgent and their goading cuts at my reluctant soul, with or without me they shall stop at Colombo. I, unwilling to be labeled a wet blanket, acquiesce ... Much as Colombo haunts me, a friendless life haunts me more.

Arrival: Bandaranaike International Airport, Katunayake

Had passed through once, en route to Male and now the second time, on a day's visit.

Bandaranaike Airport is one of the most beautiful airports I have seen yet. Huge, it stretches, replete with stalls, a boon for last minute souvenir shoppers.

A lovely lounge for transit passengers, and one of the most pleasing refreshment areas. Almost a tea room in its atmosphere with quaint chairs and a view of the airstrip through majestic glass windows, stretching from ceiling to floor.

They say the Colombo duty-free shopping is one of the best in Southeast Asia, indeed in the world too. On sale are clothes, semi precious jewellery, liquor, tobacco and even gold at the gold shop in the transit lounge.

Much as the airport charms me, there is also evidence of a city where not all is peaceful. Due to security reasons the car that shall pick us up cannot wait outside the airport. The car park is a distance away and all passengers must avail of a bus which transports passengers back and forth from airport to car park. Not the most pleasant of procedures for passengers already irritable after a journey, but nevertheless a necessary precaution.

Nirupa, 'My Woman in Colombo' so to speak, sighted for the first time amidst airport bus, baggage and all. Tomboy charm, engaging air. Introductions completed - I know I shall like her. Common friends all, we proceed.

The Drive to the City

Bandaranaike Airport is very far from main Colombo city. Alteast an hour and a half divide the two. I wonder if the distance could not be covered in less time (as between Bombay city and the Sahar International Airport at night) during off-peak traffic hours.

Polite Nirupa is aware of my uneasiness concerning her city. I am stone petrified now that I really have graced the city. Fear has made me silent, a difficult guest. "How safe is it now," Preci, my travelling companion asks Nirupa. "Bullet proof vests are to be donned the moment we enter city limits," Nirupa replies. "I carry a gun at all times." The conversation is definitely not causing me to relax. I am almost hysterical, bravely concealing this with my friendly smile, which in the face of underlying emotions looks more like a malevolent leer to all concerned. Nirupa noticing my friendly smile, asks concernedly if I am ill.

Changing my expression from a leer to a sneer, hoping to express invulnerability, I croak out, "Not at all." Satisfied, Nirupa continues conversation along the lines of how many near and dear ones she expects killed in the near future. All in a matter of fact manner, with the directness borne of knowing the inevitable. "Ah, terrorism," her tone is wistful.... "you might die." She briskly informs me "I hope you're prepared."

By this time advanced hysteria has caused a function breakdown as far as I am concerned. The sneer has been dropped, all pretences shelved. On my face - naked horror, my eyes- saucers, the mouth - a singular 'O,' a howl of protest.

Nirupa cannot restrain herself. Like all talented pranksters, real terror causes her act to crumble, for within lies a soft heart. Laughter, echoing for an aeon, in the face of my being gulled.

The rest of the journey is excited babble, exchange of news as I look out of the window, fears laid to rest. The outskirts of Colombo are breathtakingly beautiful. Green lush palms swaying, by even greener fields, all so reminiscent of south India's beauty.

"One place is so like another," I muse, "This could be India."

And then, the city

Main City Colombo.

Traffic. Buzz of horns, multitudes of office going people..... Tall buildings, study in contrasting architectures, British and New Age. Shops, ad hoardings in English, Tamil and Sinhalese. Cars whizzing on roads much cleaner than Bombay. It is said that Lanka has a very efficient road network and no highways. Main city Colombo, reminiscent of Madras in atmosphere, not so much different from Bombay, or any big city.

..... And then, since I am staying with Nirupa, meeting her family, her home in the heart of the city. I am made instantly welcome, and once more it strikes me as it did when I met Nirupa - the Sri Lankan lilt in language. Distinct from Indians if by nothing else then by their accent, a musical lilting pronunciation, soft on some notes, jarring on others.

Warm, welcoming, gracious... Colombo, infact gives off this air, despite underlying tensions that surround it. One gets the impression of immense hospitality, a wonderful people who have not forgotten good times even whilst plunged in internal trouble.

I am in Colombo for just a day. Nirupa offers to take me shopping. First to the bank to get money changed. It is necessary to show evidence of a certain amount of foreign exchange in order to obtain a Sri Lankan visa. The Sri Lankan Rupee is approximately valued at Rs 46 to a dollar. Rates fluctuate. Money exchange completed, I am taken to one of Colombo's best known malls situated at Galle road, Bambalapitiya, Colombo.

Shopping Over...

Its name? 'Majestic City.' Being inside the mall one realises how much Colombo has to offer the international buyer. There are shops selling everything from clothes to handicrafts -- three floors of wares with a food court and a cinema.

Colombo is famed for its tea, and I pick up beautifully packed tea, flavoured by the most exotic sounding fruits ranging from blueberry to passion fruit. Handicrafts too are a tourist's delight. Nirupa takes me to Liberty plaza at Duplication road, Kollupatiya, where I pick up tiny good luck pendants in clay with curious faces, colourfully painted, for friends back home. A wise wooden owl, black and white. But ah! the Sri Lankan masks, best of all, glaring faces, in wood, bold blues, scarlet and yellow and I cannot resist them! Leather goods, spices, semiprecious jewellery. All this at competitive prices make Colombo a shoppers favourite. Indeed at Liberty plaza one can obtain designer wear from famous fashion houses as much as batik printed colourful cottons.

Colombo has many more shops independent of the malls, but I am weary of purchases and wish to return home, for I have but a day.

As far as sightseeing in Colombo itself, Nirupa informs me that one could see the Parliament building, or perhaps go for a beach side promenade down picturesque Galle Road where some of the major hotels are located. I do not do either for I am tired.

Dinner Nirupa's parents take me to dinner, at the Chinese restaurant at Colombo Hilton called 'The Wok.' The lobby of the Colombo Hilton is huge and in the centre there is an arrangement, flower bedecked for the ongoing Buddhist festival Powa - which apparently is held once a month at full moon. Religion in Sri Lanka comprises not only Hindus, Christians, Muslims but to a great extent Buddhists too.

The food is excellent at 'The Wok.' Sri Lanka, besides tea and semi precious jewellery prides itself on its culinary skills. Food is big on the list of tourist attractions in Colombo, everything from Continental to Thai, to traditional Lankan!

And yes, Colombo, like any big city has a night life. Joie de vivre in the city is very much alive and kicking, besides security checkpoints and road halts at night. Karaoake night clubs are popular. The Blue Elephant, a name most favourably mentioned to me by Nirupa's friends.

Casinos too are popular. Gambling is legal in Sri Lanka.

Concerned youth... I meet Nirupa's friends, informed and aware youth, concerned not just with affairs in their own country but with a keen eye on the land a hop, skip and jump away from their own - my India. I am startled by the immense political awareness they share. Given that Sri Lanka (despite beautiful Colombo) is a country in turmoil, I should not be. It is an awareness derived of circumstance in this wonderous clan culture -- traditional, indulgent and enveloping. Its warmth is at once protective and formidable. A strong race this, capable of immense love and giving for those they consider their own.

And Colombo by night. The road meandering home from the Hilton, reminiscent of Bombay's Marine Drive. Tricks of light and shade playing conjurer, the sea in the distance or perhaps just flat land barely discernable in the dark....

I am staying with Nirupa, call her house 'home.' Friends who have visited Colombo earlier, however, maintain there are very good hotels one could choose to stay at - The Taj Samudra and the Colombo Hilton being two favoured ones.

Leave Taking

My flight departs in the wee hours and I am regretful, to my surprise. I wait in the lobby of the Hilton for my ride back to Bandaranaike Airport. Nirupa waits with me. Preci, my travelling companion is staying on.

Finally it is time to leave and Nirupa waves a cheery farewell as I load my luggage into the car. It has been too quick a visit for emotional leave- taking, there is only teasing banter and promises to write.

At the airport I shop for last minute souvenirs. A ceramic mug with a Sri Lankan mask face decorating it in bright colours. On the flight back, my mind goes back to Tom Hanks. This time emoting in Forrest Gump, "Life is like a box of chocolates... You never know what you're going to get..."

I remember my terror at the thought of Colombo, misgivings many. I had come to this city in foreboding. I took its leave in affection, already in love despite just a day spent. Whatever its troubles, Colombo cast its spell on me. I had a very safe voyage home. Just as Tom Hanks eventually did in Apollo 13.

Colombo - Fast Facts

• Colombo Hilton Echelon Square, Lotus Road, Colombo-1. Phone: 344644, 544644, 437177. Fax: 544657- 8.

• Galadari Hotel 34, Lotus Road, Colombo - 1. Phone: 544544. Fax: 544585.

• Taj Samudra Hotel 25, Galle Road, Colombo - 3. Phone: 446622. Fax: 446348.

Clubs:

• Bally's Club 14, Dharmapala Mawatha, Colombo - 3. Phone: 573497.

• Continental Club Star Tower, Fairline Emporium Building Basement, 425 Galle Road, Colombo 3. Tel: 595432-3.

• The Ritz Club 5, Galle Face Terrace, Colombo - 3. Tel: 341496.

Rent-a-car

• Avis Keells Tours (Pvt) Ltd., 429, Ferguson Road, Mattakkuliya, Colombo - 15. Phone: 522351, 522365, 524498. Fax: 522351.

• Pan Lanka Travels & Tours Ltd 1st Floor, Standard Chartered Bank Building. 17 1/2 Janadhipathi Mawatha, Colombo - 1. Phone: 422747, 423658-9, 326988. Fax: 437275.

Where to eat:

• The Cricket Club Cafe 34, Queens Road, Colombo - 3. Phone: 501384.

• Garden Cafe 199, Union Place, Colombo - 2. Phone: 071 29147.

• The Wok Colombo Hilton. Phone: 544 644.

• Summerfields Trans Asia Hotel. Phone: 544200 Ext. 1930.

• Don Stanley's 69, Alexandra Place, Colombo - 7. Phone: 686486.

• Spice Market Galadari Hotel. Phone: 544544.