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The Maha Kumbh, billed to be the world's largest gathering, ends on Wednesday as it began 45 days ago, with lakhs of devotees surging towards the waters of the Sangam, the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati, for a dip on the auspicious day of Shivratri.
The mega religious carnival wound to a close in a montage of images of the stampede that killed at least 30 people, the devout across every spectrum taking a dip in the belief it would cleanse their sins, huge crowds jostling not just at the Sangam but also stations and bus stands in north India and many a political slugfest over contested numbers and how clean the waters were.
According to the Uttar Pradesh government, 64.77 crore people have visited Prayagraj since January 13, a number that exceeds the populations of all countries except China and India. President Droupadi Murmu, Prime Minister Narendra Modi, top ministers and film stars were among those who went to the Kumbh.
It was a gathering of the faithful and believers but also of those driven by interest in the fabled Kumbh, where religion meets culture, where spirituality and tradition fuse, and where AI and modern-day technology this time blended with ancient stories of gods and miracles. The stars were aligned too with seers claiming that celestial permutations and combinations during the event took place after 144 years.
It was a massive logistical exercise.
The religious fair witnessed unprecedented security measures, including anti-drone systems and AI-enabled cameras, to man the Mahakumbh Nagar's UP's makeshift 76th district set up for the event. It was spread across 40 hectares which remained abuzz with activity 24x7 over the past six weeks.
As tourists and pilgrims from distant corners began returning home and vendors, from across the country, readied to shut shop, many were seen trying to take a dip before the Kumbh finally ends. The ritual bath is at the centre of the pilgrimage. Devout Hindus believe the coveted sacred dip at the Sangam leads to 'moksha' or salvation, especially during the once-in-12-years planetary alignments.
"To me, the Maha Kumbh would conclude when the last of the devotee has taken the dip. Put differently, you can say that the mela would end with the start of the new day at 'Brahm Muhurt' or early morning on Thursday," Chidanand Saraswati, the president of Parmarth Niketan Ashram, Rishikesh, who is camping at Prayagraj, told PTI.
Held every 12 years, the Maha Kumbh showcased India's age-old spiritual traditions, from the grand processions of akharas (monastic orders) and the ash smeared Naga sadhus, to modern tech-savvy babas, all of whom camped by the Sangam banks, drawing devotees from across the globe.
The akhara seers participated in three of the total six 'snans', known as Amrit snans - Makar Sankranti (January 14) Mauni Amavasya (January 29) and Basant Panchami (February 3). Though not a Amrit Snan, Maha Shivratri dip was among the last of the total six 'snans', the other two being Paush Purnima (January 13) and Maaghi Purnima (February 11-12).
The second Amrit snan on January 29 is when chaos -- and tragedy -- broke out. The stampede near Sangam banks, leading to 30 deaths allegedly due to overcrowding. The tragedy triggered a political slugfest with West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee slamming the Yogi Adityanath-led government to say it was a 'Mrityu Kumbh' and the BJP hitting back.
The Samajwadi Party and the Congress accused the Yogi Adityanath-led government of concealing the stampede toll.
But the devotees driven by faith, remained undeterred and kept growing in numbers even as a Central Pollution Control Board report on Ganga water quality triggered another controversy.
As millions took dip in the confluence of rivers, the water quality also came under question amid claims of high levels of faecal bacteria and total coliform. Chief Minister Adityanath rejected the claims and said in the state assembly that Ganga water at the Sangam was fit for both "snan and aachman" (bathing and ritual drinking).
The opposition, including the SP, also questioned the pilgrim footfall cited by the government but the government cited the source of the numbers -- over 3,000 cameras, including 1,800 AI-enabled ones, underwater drones and 60,000 personnel.
"Along with AI cameras, we also maintained regular touch with railways, roadways and airport personnel to corroborate pilgrim data," a senior official told PTI.
The Kumbh, a familiar trope in Hindi films of the past when brothers and families separated in the surging crowds only to be united at the end, also saw nearly half a dozen fire incidents. Fortunately, there were no casualties.
"As many as 50 fire stations, 20 fire posts were always on standby to meet any situation," Chief Fire Officer Pramod Sharma noted.
In a first, "underwater drones" capable of diving up to 100 meters were deployed to provide round-the-clock surveillance at Sangam area, the Culture Ministry had said ahead of the Kumbh.
Faith was the overriding factor, bypassing all considerations and apprehensions. This was apparent with the arrival of devotees like Bihar's Raushan Sah, who arrived for the dip along with his octogenarian mother and other family members. His brother was there on the day of the stampede but it mattered little.
"It was god's will so I could attend the Kumbh. I was here on Makar Sankranti day, and on the day the stampede happened," added Kirpal Singh from Jhansi.
The division between night and day blurred with pilgrims pouring into the ghat areas at all hours and vendors selling 'puja' ware while security personnel sought to manage the surge.
With 'Divya Kumbh, Bhavya Kumbh, Surakshit Kumbh' as its tagline, the Kumbh was billed as a great example of security and cleanliness. Security and sanitation personnel worked round-the-clock in multiple shifts to keep the area safe and clean. State officials said 37,000 police personnel, 14,000 home guards were deployed at Maha Kumbh for security arrangements while 2,750 AI-based CCTVs, three Jal Police stations, 18 Jal Police control rooms, 50 watchtowers were installed.
"Besides large-scale security arrangements, there has been regular monitoring of the social media 24x7 to check any spread of misinformation regarding the Maha Kumbh," DIG (Kumbh) Vaibhav Krishna told PTI as he oversaw law and order throughout the mega event from the ground.
Bhutan King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck was among those who paid a special visit to the Mela and took a holy dip too.
Besides showbiz stars, business tycoons, including Mukesh Ambani and Gautam Adani, along with family members visited the mela. Laura Powell, the widow of Apple founder Steve Jobs, British rock band Coldplay's Chris Martin, also came for the dip.
Actor-turned-sadhvi Mamata Kulkarni, anointed as a mahamandelshwashar of the Kinnar Akhara also hogged limelight, triggering a controversy following objection from some seers, leading to her resignation, which was later withdrawn.
Social media influencer turned 'sadhvi' Harsha Richhariya, flower seller Monalisa Bhosle from Madhya Pradesh, and Abhay Singh famously known as 'IIT Baba', also made headlines at the Kumbh.
But this Kumbh, as all others before this, was about the common person, the many millions who forgot about everyday conveniences to meet their tryst with faith.