Sunday evening brought blood and tears to the Wagah border thanks to the suicide attack in which at least 61 people died, but the checkpost has many evocative and positive memories for peaceniks on both sides of the border.
Each day, hundreds from both sides of the Wagah border throng to watch one of the most splendid ceremonies -- called the lowering of the flags or the ‘Beating Retreat’ ceremony.
The practice began in 1959 and has continued without a break, but for during the 1965 and 1971 wars.
Being present at the ceremony is a hair-raising experience; it’s where one feels most patriotic, where one’s chest fills with pride.
The ritual begins with kids, all dressed up and performing to patriotic numbers such as ‘Yeh desh hai veer, jawaanon ka’, and ‘Vande Mataram’.
Then in a 156-second ceremony filled with machismo, paramilitary guards from both sides march to the centre, till they reach nose-to-nose. All the while, the crowds both sides cheer them on with loud chants, trying to outdo each other.
The two flags are lowered simultaneously and folded in a dramatic manner.
And at the end of the display, the guards do something so simple, yet profound, that occasionally it’s lost on the crowd: They shake hands.
It is this gesture of friendship, through years of uneasy relationship, that the terrorists sought to destroy on Sunday.
