Where abusing god is a way of worship

The choicest, filthiest, foulest abuses roll off their tongues as they dance around the ritual rath with long bamboo poles in hands. Slowly, the steady flow of invectives rising in tempo, the procession moves towards river Gambhir...

In Rajasthan's Srimahavirji, one of the holiest spots for Digamabar Jains in the country, pilgrims are praying to their deity -- yes, this is the way they worship Lord Mahavira during their annual religious festival.

From April 17 to 24, hundreds of Jain pilgrims gather in this temple city to watch the local Meena and Gujjar communities put the Jain credo of 'Ahimsa parmo dharma' to test -- by singing choice obscenities in praise of Lord Mahavira.

''It is our way of worship. By abusing him we test his ahimsa logic,'' says a smiling Ram Singh.

''It will be difficult for you to comprehend. Understand just this much: you do it your way, we do it our way!'' quipped another Jain.

This week-long fair is unique in other ways too. The saarathi (driver) of the rath (chariot) on the penultimate day is the sub divisional magistrate. "He is the official representative," says a temple official, "The tradition (of representing authorities) began in the British period. Now we even have gandharva Muslims singing bhajans during the festival."

It all began in the18th century, when Lord Mahavira's main idol was unearthed by a cowherd whose family members assemble even today in the main temple before the rath yatra. ''The hundicollection from one of the shrines goes to them," says Srimahavirji temple trust president N K Sethi.

The temple -- housed in a rectangular katla (enclosure with gates on both sides) -- has, besides the 11th century sandstone idol, many sights to captivate any historian.

Surrounded by a circuitous gallery or parikrama path, the temple walls are adorned with paintings depicting the myths and legends of Jainism. On the outer walls, minute engravings depict more legends, and at the top flutters the Jain flag.

Upfront, just inside the gate, there is the manstambh, a white marble column, crowned by idols of the four tirthankars.

"The initial structure of the temple was built by Amarchand Bilawa of Jaipur state," says Seth, "The annexations and embellishments came later. The city gained fame as a pilgrim spot after three other temples came up."

Today, it is a mini township with schools, colleges, hospitals, shops... and a populace so used to this unusual form of worship there are hardly any untoward incidents during the fair.

UNI