Germany to add shine to Indian jewelry

Indian jewellery industry is roping in foreign designers to change designs and enhance the quality of its product to compete in the growing world market.

Under a project sponsored by the ministry of commerce, the Indian designers are being introduced to the preferences of the world market with the guidance of designers from Germany.

The German team has helped Indian designers understand what is in demand outside thereby increasing country's overall gems and jewellery exports by about 300 per cent, S P Bansal, convener of the Indo-German programme said.

The Germans are providing high-level systematic education in jewellery design and manufacturing.

According to Dr Thomas Beil, the principal of the course, Indian designers had earlier attempted to copy foreign designs from leaflets, but lack of knowledge about the proportion of composition failed them.

While Indians prefer 22 carat gold, Europeans prefer nine carat, he says. About 93 per cent of the diamond sold in the world market is cut and polished in India, he says adding, "We need to embed diamonds in the jewellery so that the country gets the benefit."

Gold ornaments have been favourite among Indians but the country never had a sizeable share in export market, says Beil.

"While India is one of the highest consumers of gold, the country exports only one per cent of the total world supply. The reason being, India's inability to understand the requirement of world market," he says.

Fortunately today, the students of the programme know that Germans prefer "white" jewellery in straight and geometrical shapes; it is spiral and pearls for the Japanese. Big shapes in white and yellow gold are in demand in Italy, he says.

Moreover, cheap labour makes Indian jewellery competitive in world market. "Labour cost in India comes at about one-tenth of what one has to shell out in developed countries and the designs are comparable in appearance," Beil says.

There is talent and scope for growth, as it is a fastest growing market," he adds.

India had earlier failed to woo the foreign market but during the last one decade the export of gold jewellery especially has witnessed a tremendous rise.

"According to a report, the net export rate has increased to $5,813 million in 1999 from $2,966 million in 1993.

It is estimated to touch $1 billion this financial year," says Surinder Singh, deputy director, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council.

But the Indian industry still has to go a long way. "As of now the global jewellery market is dominated by Italy, France, Germany, while China is also picking up," he added.