Dev Deepavali: A Night When The Ganga Glows

All photographs: Mayur Sanap/Rediff.com

Does the venerable city of Varanasi need an introduction? Its ancient temples, sacred streets, serene ghats, and delicious chaat have been a lure for centuries and for the last many decades for tourists from all across the world!

Each year Varanasi celebrates many key dates on our religious calendars, be it Maha Shivratri, Holi, Ganga Dussehra, Buddha Mahotsav (at Sarnath).

But it is Dev Deepavali, also known as Karthikai Deepam honouring Lord Shiva's exploits, that has evolved from a humble celebration to grand holy and cultural exhibition of what the city has to offer.

It invites visitors to have a gorgeous look at the rich tapestry of tradition, heritage, culture, spiritualty on display, creating a vibrant atmosphere that transcends national boundaries. No wonder so many international tourists look at Dev Deepavali as great opportunity to visit Varanasi.

The festival is celebrated 15 days after Diwali, on enchanting full-moon night. Visitors are treated to a dazzling spectacle of thousands and thousands of earthen oil lamps on the Ganga ghats, processions of deities from surrounding temples, and the powerful rhythms of aarti chants and songs passed down through generations.

To this already overwhelming agenda, a breathtaking parade of sky-kissing fireworks is added, as well as a light-and-sound show, ensuring you have enough glorious visuals clicked to dominate your social media and grow your followers' sense of FOMO.

It is truly magical to have that rare chance to experience all of this!

IMAGE: Dashashwamedh Ghat, which is the main ghat close to Vishwanath Temple, is adorned with colourful flowers on the morning of Dev Deepavali.
Many devotees prefer to have a Ganga snaan or dip here, before proceeding to the temple.
During the festival, hundreds of both locals and visitors congregate around the ghats for this ritual holy dip that will wash away their sins for ultimate salvation.
This spot subsequently attracts major crowds for the Ganga Maha Aarti in the evening.

IMAGE: The ghats are bathed in a golden glow the day before Dev Deepavali.

IMAGE: On the eve of the festival, lakhs of visitors, locals and community organisers gather at the ghats to organise the display of diyas.

IMAGE: Visitors secure best vantage spots at Lalita Ghat for the grand fireworks show. The firecrackers shoot up from the banks of Ganga on opposite side of ghats.

IMAGE: Revellers prepare to leave on boats offering gorgeous views of all 84 ghats on Dev Deepavali night.
Of course, the experience has a premium price tag, with per person costs ranging from anywhere between Rs 1,500 and a whopping Rs 5,000, a steep rise from the Rs 100 to Rs 150 for a boat ride on an ordinary day. The seats on the boats often sell out quite quickly due to high demand during the festival.
Starting 5 pm, the boats depart for a four-hour long journey on the lit Ganga and the price of a ticket includes a life jacket, a snack box, a water bottle and a puja diya.

IMAGE: At the ghats, lakhs of diyas are lit. Devotees also immerse lamps into the river that will slowly float along the small ripples of the water. It's a beautiful sight!

IMAGE: The Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat in progress with its many unique rituals. And if you love photography, this is the best time to get your quintessential Varanasi snaps.

IMAGE: A glorious view of the ghats from a boat. You can quite clearly hear and be hypnotised by the chanting of mantras, the low thrum of conch shells, the music of the aartis, against the backdrop of spectacularly decorated temples and homes.

IMAGE: At around 8 pm, right after the Ganga Aarti, those on boats are ushered to the Chet Singh Ghat where a light and sound show takes place, ending in the synchronised launching of thousands of laser lights!

IMAGE: Yes, this is the closest you can get to experiencing the aurora borealis in India :)).

IMAGE: The heart-thumping fireworks show! For those who don't want to spend lots of money on boat rides, you can enjoy the rich atmosphere from any of the ghats too.

IMAGE: The famed double-decker Malviya Bridge, that dates from 1887, decked up for Dev Deepavali, a witness to probably 138 editions of the festival.

IMAGE: The ghats are a feast for the eyes...

IMAGE: Visitors release lanterns into the night sky at Lalita Ghat, also known as Kashi Vishwanath Ghat.

IMAGE: A sea of diyas and rejoicing.

IMAGE: The gleaming Ratneshwar Mahadev temple at Manikarnika Ghat, which is notable for its slightly crooked look that has visitors awestruck by its mysterious, haunting beauty.

IMAGE: The event might have ended but the city continues to sparkle. There is splendour even in the quietness of Varanasi.

Important Travel Tips For Visiting Varanasi For Dev Deepavali

You can conveniently book your seat on government-run boats online. The price is higher than usual, but these boats are much safer and more comfortable.
Local vendors can quote high prices, so it is advisable to book boats in advance.
There will be cellphone jammers on at the venue, so plan accordingly. Carry cash to buy food or for any other important needs, as you will not have access to UPI payments gateways.
Get a mosquito repellent along to use to avoid insect bites during the evening! Trust me, it can be a hassle.
Carry a hoodie or light jacket to combat the evening's cooler breezes, especially if you are on a boat.