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The Must-Visit City By The Lake

Last updated on: May 27, 2023 12:59 IST

The elegant architecture, tree-lined roads, delightful gardens, delicious food, art and military history make Chandigarh an ideal short-trip destination.

As soon as the flight touches down at Chandigarh airport amidst rain, lightning and terrifying turbulence, the cabin erupts in cheers and claps for the pilots, applauding the safe landing.

The terminal is quiet at that late hour, but what stands out is an idyllic village scene that has been recreated at the exit -- a hut with a thatched roof and a Punjabi man beside a bicycle and woman on a string cot.

Some days, one can even find a cart selling kulhad chai near the baggage carousels. Chairs under umbrellas are placed between the belts where passengers can have some tea before heading out.

IMAGE: A rustic village scene that greets passengers on arrival at Chandigarh airport. All photographs: Archana Masih/Rediff.com
 

Chandigarh is a warm, welcoming city. Its wide tree-lined boulevards and large gardens are a balm to the soul when green spaces are being gobbled up with alarming speed all around us.

People walk around the Zakir Hussain Rose garden, spread over 30 acres, and said to be the largest in Asia. Nearby, the flowers are in full bloom at Sukhna Lake as walkers stroll under the canopy of trees.

The lake has wheelchair accessibility and one can sit for hours on the benches overlooking the reservoir at the foothills of the Shivalik range. The trees are marked by botanical names and interesting sculptures make the walk an immersive experience at the lake, which lies at the heart of the city.

IMAGE: Children enjoy a pleasant morning at Sukhna Lake, the heart of the city.

For a region that sends one of the largest number of soldiers into the armed forces, the tri-city Chandigarh-Mohali-Panchkula has among the largest population of retired officers and ex-servicemen.

The grounds of the Ranjit Singh Armed Forces Preparatory Institute in Mohali displays some of the most well-made busts of soldiers from Punjab who have laid down their lives for the country.

Part of the ground is dedicated to a garden in memory of the Sikh soldiers killed in action in the Battle of Saragarhi (the 1897 battle that was part of the Indian frontier campaign mounted by the British) -- a tree planted in memory of each soldier, with his name on a plaque under it.

A handsome statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh on a horse is mounted high on a platform and rises above the institute's wall.

IMAGE: The lawns of the Maharaja Ranjit Singh War Museum in Ludhiana.

In Ludhiana, 100 km away, lies the Maharaja Ranjit Singh War Museum in honour of India's brave soldiers. It has galleries dedicated to the historic campaigns of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and about the wars fought by the Indian armed forces. The first gallery is dedicated to the gallantry-award winners and senior officers from Punjab.

Run by the state government, the museum bears a neglected look; there is no electricity on the afternoon when we visit. The battle tanks, anti-aircraft guns spread out on the lawns outside provide an engaging walkabout while thinking about the men and the weapon systems that took part in battles of the past.

The first Indian-made battle tank, Vijayanta, is a part of this garden museum of military hardware that has served India well.

Families with children sit on the lawns, finding rest under shady trees and almost all visitors take pictures with a large seated statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh at the entrance.

IMAGE: Maharaja Ranjit Singh's statue at the entrance of the museum. His 40-year reign is known as the golden age of Punjab's history.

The road from Chandigarh to Ludhiana, as one would expect, has several interesting eating pit stops. Raja Dhaba stands out -- bright and sparkling, its flags and vibrant-coloured cots beckoning passing cars. A large cut-out of a Punjabi movie welcomes guests at the entrance.

It is morning and a birthday celebration is on -- a Black Forest cake was waiting to be cut beside plates of Chole Bhature at the next table.

The restaurant also has a big counter selling jaggery, pickles, Punjabi dry snacks. The fancy dhaba serves a good breakfast of parathas with butter, Chole Bhature, lassi and provides sparklingly clean bathrooms -- the two most important requirements of highway travel, apart from a fueling station, of course.

IMAGE: Raja Dhaba on the highway between Chandigarh and Ludhiana.

With the road as a friend and fine travelling companions, we head towards Patiala, the seat of the erstwhile maharajas, whose current head, Captain Amarinder Singh is also a former chief minister of Punjab.

En route, as it so happens, a short car convoy with Captain Amarinder in it crosses us on the highway. It is a Sunday and inside Patiala city, devotees throng the Dukhinivaran Sahib gurdwara which means 'eradication of suffering'. The two-storied gurdwara is among the most famous in Punjab.

IMAGE: The Baradari Palace is a quiet and tasteful hotel set amidst a large garden in Patiala.

At the Baradari Palace, a heritage resort restored by the Neemrana hotel group, a roka ceremony of a British-Indian couple is taking place. The small and tasteful palace in white is an amalgamation of Hindustani-Mughal-colonial influences and was commissioned by one of Captain Amarinder's ancestors, Maharaja Rajinder Singh of Patiala.

Even though the restaurant is booked for the roka ceremony, the gracious head chef Junaid Ahmed finds a quiet table in the bar after we tell him that we have come all the way from Chandigarh via Ludhiana.

The ghosht and Dak Bungalow Chicken are delicious. The service is warm and friendly with the chef taking time out to speak to us.

The drive from Patiala to Chandigarh is about an hour long. By sundown, we are back in Chandigarh, which is easily one of the country's most interesting cities.

IMAGE: An enclosure for senior citizens in a marketplace in Chandigarh.

One of the must-visit places in Chandigarh is the Bahrisons book shop which has some surprising finds. The store also houses a café -- there are, it seems, hardly any bookshops in Indian without coffee shops attached these days.

The Government Museum and Art Gallery designed by Le Corbusier is an interesting place to visit and provides a free guided tour. Its artifacts were originally kept in the Lahore museum and divided between India and Pakistan after Partition in 1947.

Brothers Dhaba at Sector 9 serves delicious parathas and 'churchur' (hot parathas with melting butter crinkled inside an aluminium foil) served with chole. It is crowded and parking is difficult to find, but the food is worth the inconvenience.

Hops and Grains Kitchen and Brewery has a good vibe and tasty food.

Backpackers Café is a cool place to eat with some interesting summer drinks and is built around a travel theme. The walls are covered with framed retro images of famous travel destinations and gives a relaxed chilled-out feel.

The drinks are particularly good.

IMAGE: The walls of the Backpackers Café are covered with retro pictures of faraway places.

The distinct Le Corbusier architecture lends a unique character to the well-laid out city. Spend a couple of days here and it is very likely that one could even identify the Corbusier buildings around Chandigarh.

The elegant architecture, tree-lined roads, delightful gardens, delicious food, art and military history make it an ideal short-trip destination.

Make a visit soon and make the most of it while there!

ARCHANA MASIH